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Originally in
“Livebearers”, Journal of the American Livebearers Association . First published
around 2003,
this essay describes my
introduction to selective breeding, and where I am today, breeding various
livebearers,
swords, goodeids and
barbs. The initial experience with the fish I started out with established my
respect for
doing things with a
certain approach, and those lessons are still fresh and appropriate to
everything I do in
my breeding programs
today.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
I
had kept community
tanks for over 40 years, and decided around 1995 to devote a few tanks
to working with just
one line of livebearers,
hoping to develop something I thought looked good, representing better
quality, consistent
color, size and finnage
than what I had. I knew I didn’t have the knowledge of genetics I
thought I’d need to
introduce specific
physical characteristics, but with all I had read about careful record
keeping and observing fish
closely, I thought I’d be
able to “stabilize” a line toward its best looking fish. I believed that
it shouldn’t be
too difficult to get a
line to look fairly consistent, close to how I thought it should look,
producing desired,
attractive and healthy
fish. I had seen the large IFGA delta tailed guppies back in the '60's
and had always wanted
to become involved with
them. I also admired the large wild swordtails that I had only read
about, but had never seen.
I figured that what I
learned could be applied to anything down the road, angelfish, barbs,
etc. However, I naively
believed that guppies
would be an ideal, easy species to start with.
After maintaining at
least one 55 gallon tank over the years, I managed to breed a few
species since first keeping
fish in 7th grade. I felt
confident of my husbandry skills; I even took pride in my ability to
maintain beautifully
planted tanks. I had long
been in the habit of testing my water, and did at least weekly water
changes. I figured
I knew what I was doing,
and didn’t anticipate any big surprises.
The entire journey to
selectively breed my own line of fish proved to be both an exciting and
humbling process.
I found that I knew less
than I thought, and was far less prepared than I could have been,
primarily with respect
to the number of tanks
I’d need, and how they should be maintained. The process caused me to
re-evaluate why I keep
tanks and opened up the
hobby for me to do things I never thought I could.
Today I’ve been
successful at creating a distinctive line of X. nezahualcoyotl, a wild
type swordtail that has been
sold at fish conventions
for about 8 years. I learned to change many long established habits, and
wish to briefly
share some of the
information I spent so much time and money accumulating, so that you
won’t need to stumble and
trip through the learning
curve as I did. In combination with what others have told me, I learned
to develop each
step of the process based
on my own experience. I took an “assume but verify” mindset,
understanding that water
qualities and husbandry,
the two biggest factors in this process, generally differ between
fishrooms. The result
from this essay for you
is that as I detail what I have done to develop out various livebearer,
cichlid or barb
lines, you will need to
adapt my process to the species you have chosen to breed, and the
limitations you may face
due to the
characteristics of your water. For best results (or any results) you
need to be sure the species you
choose will do well in
your water, in that they are comfortable enough to express their desire
to breed. Your tap
water can vary widely
depending on where you live, and you must choose to work with fish that
already do well in
your water if you are
hoping to breed them, and if you hope to share the fish you breed with
other hobbyists.
Find out what the basic
preferred conditions are for the fish you want to breed. (Minimum size
tank, recommended pH,
hardness, temperature,
water movement, amount of light, need for plants/ places to hide,
whether they require gravel
to spawn, do they require
certain triggers to spawn?) Have they done well for you in the past?
Even though many
individuals appear
healthy, do you find that single fish die occasionally for seemingly no
reason? (This can indicate
that the water parameters
can be adapted to by some, but not others, and they probably will not
breed readily)
Have they bred for you in
the past? And have you read everything you could find on breeding the
fish you have chosen?
Before I started this
process I had a well planted 100 gallon show tank filtered with a well
aged wet/dry trickle
filter, a mature
fluidized bed filter on the back and over 30 years experience at keeping
fish. In this large tank
I kept trays of peat
beneath a ½” layer of natural pea gravel that supported large trunks of
carefully trimmed
Watersprite (Ceratopteris-
they looked liked a maintained Bonsai forest) and Vallisneria, and I had
moved out all of
the fish. My goal was to
have these beautiful surroundings with the big IFGA (International Fancy
Guppy association)
delta tailed guppies
swimming between the plants. I was willing to set up a couple 20 gallon
tanks for babies and for
quarantine. So those
guppies were my first choice, yet I knew nothing about these fish other
than that they were
guppies.
How hard can guppies be
to keep? I hadn’t talked to anyone, or read a thing about them, thinking
I knew guppies.
For the majority of my
time keeping tanks I’ve always had a line or two, and I’d kept guppies
pretty heavily when I
was in high school. I had
no idea what more there could be. Later in this essay I will address
other fish I have worked
with, but the basic
process, organization, observation and attention to detail I first
encountered with those guppies
well documents what needs
to be done with whatever species you decide to work with. Your basic
tank sizes will vary
depending on the size of
the fish you will be working with. For Guppies, danios or dwarf cichlids
you will be using
10s and 30s, with
livebearer swords, barbs, angels and most cichlids the tank sizes may be
20s and 50s, though their
functions in your
breeding program will be similar.
I set out to buy the best
IFGA delta-tailed Guppy stock I could find. Through the classified ads
in the back of one
of the fish magazines I
contacted a couple breeders and even set up appointments to tour their
fishrooms. One room
involved a 7 hour drive
to L.A. from where I was living, but it was entirely worth the effort. I
explained what I
wanted to do, and that I
was willing to spend a little money to start with a few quality fish.
The fishroom in L.A. was
mindblowing. This guy had close to 200 tanks, and most of them were 30,
50 and 90 gallon
tanks. All stocked
heavily with thousands of guppies. Entire rows with tanks on both sides,
all filled with bright
delta tails- dozens of
tanks that in many cases were full of the same line of identical fish!
With a great eye and
years of experience he
scanned the fish as they matured, looking for tiny advantages or flaws
in any particular fish,
carefully picking his
next line of breeders.
I did my best to pick
every corner of his brain that I could get into. “How extensive is your
record keeping?”
I asked. “ I don’t keep
records. In fact I really don’t write anything down.” He told me. He had
dozens of lines.
Thousands of fish. 200
aquariums, and he doesn’t keep any records. I was warned that my planted
100 gallon tank
idea was probably not a
good one, but I didn’t understand why. Today I realize that those
breeders probably figured
there wasn’t enough time
in the day to explain what I needed to know.
I knew even less than I
thought. And it seemed that that wasn’t much.
The Mechanics of
Selective Breeding
I bought 3 trios and
ended up running into problems before the fish had even arrived. To
prepare for their arrival
I was told to totally
clean everything with bleach. Tanks, filters, nets, siphon hoses,
tubing, everything. All
of the established
biofiltration had to be destroyed, and for evermore any fish from
outside of my fishroom had to
stay outside of my
fishroom. No more live plants or gravel. These top quality fish, at
close to $100 a trio back in
1995, were coming from
what I was assured were totally disease free environments, and must be
introduced to a similar
setup. The breeders
I visited even kept these cute little dipping buckets filled with a weak
chlorine bath for dipping
their nets, to
prevent any spread of disease between tanks. Salt had to be added to the
water at 1 tblsp. per five
gallons of water.
Everything had to be kept clean, clean, clean. With the salt in the
water and careful, nearly
obsessive
observation of the fish I began to understand why I didn’t see plants or
gravel in any of the tanks of the
champion breeders I
visited.
Gravel harbors
organic waste that can contribute to fungal and bacterial infections,
and limits your control over the
cleanliness of the
overall tank environment. With hardier species, such as those that cost
next to nothing at the fish
store, all of these
precautions may not be required to keep them alive, but to raise your
fish to their potential and
to be disease free,
these practices are the way I needed to go. I could see that multiple
bare-bottomed single species
tanks would be
easier to maintain, though they might not be much to look at, and how
the tanks looked was long an
important
consideration for me. To be more accurate, looks were now in fact very
important- in that the tanks were
now bare, clean and
functional. Today I add plants conservatively to provide hiding places
for fry, and to address
the need for
security in some fish so that they are most comfortable, and more likely
to breed.
I faced a dilemma.
These expensive fish obviously need a cycled, ready tank. I couldn’t
cycle the tank until the fish-
those fish- had lived in
it for awhile- 4 months in the case of the big trickle filter on the 100
gallon. I also knew
that in a new tank with
fish, and food going in every day, the ammonia would spike in about 15
days. I would need to
avoid “new tank
syndrome”, where the fish die off until the bacteria is built up, so I
would need to do regular water
changes the first couple
weeks to remove toxins, until the needed bacteria had been given the
opportunity to build up.
The mechanical and
biological filters were no longer going to be the primary means of
filtration. It had to be water
changes and concern for
the number of fish kept within a specific volume of water. Today I do 7%
water changes every
day with an automated
system but that level of care isn’t necessary for doing what this
article is about. I found at
least a single 25% water
change a week will work after your water is fully conditioned/ cycled,
but that is an absolute
minimum.
Along with salt, I have
also used Aquarisol as a disease preventative, dosing with my water
changes. An ultraviolet
sterilizer is not a bad
idea, but it generally isn't necessary, and does begin to get in the way
of keeping things
simple and inexpensive.
If you are selective breeding to eventually build out a large number of
fish for sale, keep
in mind that too much
extra care could produce fish that when tossed into a standard, barely
maintained community tank,
your fish may not adapt.
It is not always enough to provide fish that are healthy when they leave
your facility, they
must be hardy enough to
withstand broad changes in water conditions and husbandry. No fish can
handle much abuse for
very long, but you want
any extra variables that a customer must meet kept to a minimum. Fish
raised with a UV sterilizer,
10% daily water changes,
prophylactic doses of salt with water changes and possibly regular
dosing of something like
Aquarisol are all done
frequently by serious aquarists, but someone taking a fish from that
environment and putting them
into an established tank
with other species, without the sterilizer, salt and preventative
medications, at slightly
different temps, diet and
feeding schedule is not going to do well.
So now I have a couple of
bare bottomed tanks, with the outside of the bottom glass plate painted
black to bring out
the colors of the
fish, no plants, a 100 gallon tank empty except for the clear water
cycling through the pristine
filters, and a
couple trios of very young, tiny, and what for me were incredibly
expensive fish.
So I needed more small
tanks. The books I read said livebearers require 4 tanks per strain; a
male grow-out tank, a
female grow-out tank, a
baby raising tank and a mating/breeding tank. That's great until you
have more than one female
pregnant at a time, and
if you breed your line in trios, as you should, tank space issues
present themselves almost
immediately. With barbs,
danios, and similar egg scatterers you would also need a minimum of 4
tanks- a male adults
tank, a female adults
tank (where the females can be conditioned separately for spawning), a
breeding/ new fry tank
and a fry grow out tank.
Most cichlids will require more tanks, because they are generally
larger, can be territorial
and don’t breed in
groups. Cichlids (where spawns can be 200+ fry) require a fry grow-out
tank, grow-out tanks for
young from about a month
old until they pair off, and a separate tank for each mated pair to
spawn in. All this also
meant that as a rule,
most all tanks will be species-only tanks, in that there will no longer
be a reason to keep
more than one species by
itself in any aquarium. I do maintain a “cull tank” that looks great
with fish that show
off a little of what goes
on in the room, but they are more tanks set up so that I have
“emergency” fish to use as
breeders if needed.
Otherwise I don’t mix species in the same tanks anymore.
I recommend keeping a
collection of portable, lightweight containers on hand to serve as
temporary “housing” as fish
are born and numbers take
off. I use the 10 or 12 gallon sized white plastic kitchen-type trash
containers, and only
use those made by
Sterilite. This isn’t a plug for Sterilite- some companies use softeners
in their plastic that is
toxic to fish. I have
found this to be the case in the past with all of the Rubbermaid
products, and lost many fish
until I discovered what
the problem was, having since found others with the same experience. The
biggest drawback to
using those white trash
cans in a breeding program is that the bright white sides wash out the
color in the fish when
reasonably well lit- and
the color quickly returns when put back into a normal environment. With
some floating plants
and an airstone or a box
filter, fish will do well in those containers, with the only drawback
being that you are not
able to observe them,
which keeps their use to a temporary basis. For the extra female about
to pop they are perfect
with a little Java moss
to catch fry.
Some Guppy breeders will
raise the sexes together, allowing already gravid chosen breeder females
to drop before being
mated, making the
assumption that the influence of previous fertilizations from stored
sperm will be minimal. (That
thinking is generally no
longer followed) Raising the sexes separately, however, has many big
advantages. Male guppies
develop a gonopodium by
their first month. From then on their energy and time is spent chasing
and courting females or
competing with one
another when you want them eating and building finnage. Separating them
puts their energy into growth,
and the differences in
size when the sexes have been grown out separately is substantial. The
trick then becomes at what
age to put the breeders
together, at what point is it when the fish were as good as they were
going to get, but not too
old to breed? That is
something I’ve simply I had to learn as I’ve been doing this. When
raised separately they get
much larger, and when
choosing breeders you can then see each fish at closest to its
potential.
Then a fundamental aspect
of breeding occurred to me. What happens to all of the fish that don’t
get chosen as breeders?
As a hobbyist that enjoys
and appreciates the fish I keep, I did not want killing them in large
numbers to become one
of my primary fishkeeping
activities.
Successful selective
breeding meant culling ruthlessly, which I do understand the need for.
But intentionally killing
fish wasn’t something I
wanted to do. Previously, when fish die it had always been a bad thing.
I once heard a comic
say that he liked to
watch things die… so he bought a fish tank. There are far less
frustrating, inexpensive and time
intensive ways to enjoy
yourself if your idea of a good time is watching things die. I was
pleased to see, however,
that even some of the
most macho breeders that shrug over killing hundreds of fish often have
a pond in their back
yard full of their culls,
local petshops full of their culls, friends’ tanks full of their culls…
If you do meet the
occasional breeder that
enjoys killing things, forgive me if I choose to pass on spending my
time hanging out at their
place. No normal person
enjoys killing things, but removing them, somehow, from your breeding
efforts does come with
the territory. Selling or
marketing your culls is not always an option. Until the traits you are
working to established
are “fixed”, in that the
majority of the fish you produce carry the trait, you do not want to
release poorly,
inconsistently finned,
poorly colored or “half-assed” versions of your final product out and
around your eventual
customers. When you are
finally able to sell the finished product, you may find that there is no
longer a market to
fishkeepers who already
have tanks full of inferior versions of the line you put so much time
into. And they got them
from you!
Another lesson is that when you
buy fish from someone else to start a breeding program, the fish are
coming from
foreign water, husbandry, food
etc. The goal from those first fish is to drop young born in your water.
With most
fish, especially the
livebearers I have worked with, my experience has been that those
initial purchased individuals
generally don’t live a full
lifespan. Their young should grow out well, but my experience has been
that getting fish
into your tanks of the size and
color of those you saw at the website or at the breeder’s fishroom don’t
appear until
the second generation beyond
the original stock. So with guppies, for example, at 4 months per
generation, assuming
the fish you receive drop
within a month after you received them, it will be another 8 months
before you are working
with fish that display the
line’s potential. The best way to extend the life of the fish you buy is
to purchase young
fish and raise them up
yourself. Young fish adapt better and also survive shipping better, but
it is important to work
with fish that have fully
adapted to your water, in part by having been born in your tanks.
I have also found that even
with the fish being kept in essentially empty tanks beyond the water,
fish, filter and
possibly a heater, fish do best
when they are moved as little as possible. Consistent breeders need to
be allowed to
stay where they are, even
though the water is the same throughout the room. The single biggest
circumstance where I
lose fish is when I must remove
a female and put her in her own (generally smaller and more heavily
planted) tank to
drop fry. Though it may be
cleaner, and without issues of her being harassed by the males, with
some species the fish
may die shortly after being
moved, or she’s living, but only after having released her young, all
dead. A few species
seem fairly prone to this, and
others it is not an issue. With species most prone to this, you can
occasionally
lose batches of young. (I have
found that Ameca splendens is one species that can be this way). So if
there is only a
pair or trio in a tank by
themselves I may leave the female and remove the others, then put in a
cloud of plants until
she drops her fry.
If there must be other
fish in the tank, I will keep them well fed, put a bunch of plants in
for the babies to hide in,
and then check the tank
mid- late morning for fry until they appear, as most livebearers
generally give birth between
sun-up and noon. Then
I’ll carefully remove whatever I can catch. Don’t remove the plants,
filter and heater and set
about catching the young-
all you are doing is exposing the young where the other fish can swoop
by and eat them. Once
you have caught as many
as you can see, then gradually start removing the plants etc. until all
of the young are caught.
Clearly, a lone gravid
female in a fine-leaved planted tank that she is comfortable in is the
best solution. In any
breeding program, one of
the strongest components of your effort is your ability to save every
single fry, for you
never know which fish
will carry the traits you are looking for, or a new mutation you will
want to preserve.
The “rule of thumb” was
that of a drop of 30 young, you may get one pair worth keeping to
consider as future breeders,
the rest will need to be
disposed of, somehow. Out of a strained logic to go natural, I started
keeping something big
and carnivorous in its
own tank to eat the culls, such as an Oscar. All I ended up with was a
fish that went long
periods of feast or
famine, who took up a large tank and space I really needed for the
breeding program. So I don’t
do that anymore.
I learned that the
function of any particular tank can change often, and most problems can
be solved by simply setting
up another tank, which
can cause your fishroom to get cluttered pretty quickly. I recommend
only keeping as many tanks
as you can effectively
provide maximum care for, cull to keep numbers down, and keep the number
of strains you choose
to become involved with
to a minimum. Don't let your strains multiply when you get a neat
looking cull or two unless
you are willing to
increase the number of tanks. And if the females of two strains that you
are keeping near one another
look alike, the potential
for an accidental cross by fish jumping between tanks is a real
possibility- always separate
tanks of fish that look
too much alike. Allowing greater numbers within a strain also increases
your odds for the
appearance of a mutation
you are hoping for. I found that to minimally maintain a strain, I
needed to keep at least 3
breeding trios on hand.
Today, after many years
of doing this, I find that my number of tanks per species changes,
depending on where I am in
the line’s development.
But I generally keep one or two tanks of breeding pairs, (more if I am
only breeding them in
single pairs or trios),
one tank for each pre-sexed batch of fry, and a single tank for male
grow-out and for female
grow-out. Currently I
have a number of swordtail species I continue to selectively breed, and
except for the batches
of new young kept in
groups of approximately 30 at a time in 10 gallon tanks, the rest are in
30 gallon sized tanks.
The biggest mistake a
breeder can make is to accidentally mix two similar looking species that
may cross, or lines
that must be kept
separate. If a mix continues and goes into the next generation, all must
be destroyed or given to
someone that will never
give them to anyone else. Also keep in mind that crossing two species is
not always an easy
thing- a deliberate
effort to cross two Xiphophorus species, for example, is not generally a
case of putting two of
the opposite sex together, particularly when one or both species have
others in their tank of their own species to
choose from. But it does happen. Breeders trying to cross two fish such
as that may take months of many pairings
before it finally takes place, but a mix of two lines of the same
species- however different in appearance- will
easily result in an unwanted fertilization.
Contamination between tanks often occurs by fish jumping, or by being
put there accidentally by you, or inadvertently
riding along as a fry in a bunch of plants or between the folds of a
net. Years ago a friend noticed I had obtained
some heterandria formosa- one of the smallest vertebrates on earth, the
males are full grown at 3/4ths of an inch.
He commented "They are a great fish, but they are like mice. Soon you
will have them in every tank- their fry are
very small and easily get swept up in nets". Even a tank that has little
in it has a surprising number of places for
fry to hide. When I believe I have removed all of the fish from a tank,
I let it sit, then check back in 10-15 minutes,
when any hiding fry will have come out into the open. And I may do that
more than once, yet when fish do appear where
they should not it is almost always due to their having avoided having
been caught in the past.
So I am very leery of following closely related species with one another
in the same tank. For example, I have to be
very careful not to let Xiphophorus alvarezi and Xiphophorus mayae near
one another. Until they are sexually mature
they can be very similar in appearance.
Keep in mind as well that it’s a good idea to establish two lines of
each strain you are working on that can be crossed
about every 5th or 6th generation to maintain some genetic diversity and
vigor, which unfortunately will double the
number of tanks you will be using. I was told that a trait establishes
itself- in that selected traits will consistently
present themselves in every individual of each successive drop, at 11
generations. That may simply be an axiom to keep
working with a line until you consistently get what you are looking for,
but the point has merit. A guppy generation is
4 months. A swordtail generation is 8 months. Angelfish- 10 months. My
experience has been that that I will start to
see some consistency in the fry (More than 50% displaying the trait) by
the 5th generation.
As my breeding program grew I began to look for ways to seek help with
the water changes as it seemed to me that when
raising young fry, particularly egg layer fry, that consistent, clean
water was everything. But keep this in mind-
when changing water on the containers the fry are in, if possible your
fresh water that you add should come from the
tank they were born in, or the eggs were first laid in, then add
dechlorinated tap water to the original tank, possibly
still containing the adults later. With new fry of most fish I will have
them spend their first few days in a bare
container with a few sprigs of Java fern or moss, 2x per day brine
shrimp feedings (siphoning up what wasn’t eaten
after 10 or 15 minutes) and 50% per day water changes.
When establishing your water change routine, it took awhile for me to
determine what amounts should be changed for
the best effect for the fish. Though 35% a week is good, 5% a day is
both far better but much more work. Over time
I have settled on about 10% per day. How can I have a system where I can
set exactly how much water each tank gets,
whenever I want to put it in? And then to have it done on its own, so I
can spend my time siphoning off bottoms and
moving fish around, doing the many other things that standard, quality
husbandry requires? Over 10 years I eventually
created an automatic water changing system, entirely made of PVC that
does not require any drilling of tanks, is
relatively portable in that tanks and the PVC drain and fill tubing can
be moved easily, and both the draining and
filling happen on their own. I have given many talks to fish groups on
this system, and plans can be purchased at
my website, selectaquatics.com or by emailing me at
selectaquatics@gmail.com.
I cover each tank with plastic "egg crate" style lighting cover sheets,
cut to size with standard 4 ft. shop lights
or homemade CFL fixtures hanging over the tanks. I try to save money
where I can, and when buying all of these filters,
heaters and air pumps (or a blower), I research the local pet shops,
hardware stores, mail order companies, etc. Tank
lights can be made from plastic home gutter stock with a light socket
and cut wooden end pieces, filter floss can be
bought in huge bags as polyester stuffing from hobby stores for only $2
or $3. I patronize local fish stores whenever
possible, buying blackworms, frozen foods and my immediate needs
whenever possible, and belong to a number of fish
clubs where I can share my efforts, equipment, and failures, while
getting new ideas and approaches in return.
Diseases
This needs to be mentioned, but is not much of an issue when you are
doing things correctly. When keeping bare
bottomed tanks with some plants, regular feeding of occasional live
food, consistent water quality and non-crowded
conditions, you will see very little disease. In fact, over the last 10
years, I can count my disease outbreaks on
one hand, and they can nearly always be traced back to a tank whose care
suffered for some reason- it became too
full of plants, some fish that weren’t able to be seen easily then died,
leading to an ammonia buildup in the tank,
or a live food introduced something the fish couldn’t defend themselves
from. Or a seasonal change came about and I
was too slow to get heaters in the tanks that sat too close to windows,
or a new fish brought something in with it.
With proper care you simply will not see disease very often. With the
husbandry program I am describing here, when
there has been disease, it has generally been a touch of fin rot or body
fungus. Once (in 10 years!) I had a small
appearance of ich in a couple fish that was easily remedied. For all of
those things, following the recommended
course for treatment with Aquarisol, (Dose 12 drops per every 10 gallons
daily for a week) in combination with
raising the temperature slightly cured the outbreaks.
I never experienced outbreaks that were genuinely serious, but I have
known other breeders that due to an
introduction of fish or some other reason they didn’t forsee had to deal
with multiple tank outbreaks. The breeder
I mentioned earlier with the 200 tanks once had an outbreak he
attributes to a bad batch of brine shrimp eggs that
introduced something that wiped out over 40 tanks of fish.
When an outbreak occurs, your first avenue is to isolate those affected.
If the disease is simply a fish or two with
a couple of ich spots I will raise the temperature to around 82 degrees
and treat daily for one week with Aquarisol,
keeping a close eye on the rest of the tank. Any other available ich
medications are also effective, inexpensive,
and easy to use. If it is something more serious- say a fish or two in a
tank with fin rot starting, I’ll correct any
issues with that tank (clean off the bottom, do a water change, possibly
raise the temp slightly), and remove the
affected individuals to a separate tank to recover, treating both tanks.
I will label the tank affected until the
issue is resolved. If it is something more serious, I may destroy the
affected individuals, and treat the rest of
the tank. Aquarisol is cheap, which is a big advantage. It takes care of
most minor afflictions, is a great
preventative, is very mild by most medication standards, but a course of
treeatment can take 2 weeks. Treating a
30 or 50 gallon tank full of fish with many of the available medications
can become very expensive. But as mentioned,
with proper care your occurrence of disease should be minimal.
In the case of an outbreak that got out of hand, or some truly terrible
outbreak of something occurred that
wiped out a lot of fish, you will need to follow a few steps to get that
particular tank up and running again.
For example, something known as “The livebearer disease” can take hold,
and it is a small parasite that feeds
on the skin of the fish, causing them to become thin, weak and
eventually die, and it can easily take over an
entire tank. I have had it in the past, but have not seen it in many
years in my tanks. I treated it by destroying
the fish that showed signs of it, increasing feedings and heavy water
changes and patience to wait for the fish to
come through it, of course never mixing fish with it with any that had
not been exposed to it. Some fishkeepers will
use Levamisol (procured through a local vet) to treat it with some
success. But if you have a group that has been
heavily hit (Say you came back from a vacation and it happened while you
were gone), here is what needs to be done.
If you choose to treat the tank, then do at least a 50% water change,
raise the temp to 80 degrees (assuming there
are no goodeids- they do not tolerate warmer water) and begin treatment,
removing all fish that look as if they will
no longer be used as breeders, or that are most likely going to die
anyway. Follow course of treatment, and the
remaining may recover and you’ll be fine. Most likely the disease may
linger and you will lose most or all of the
fish.
If your breeding program can afford to lose that tank of fish, then
discard all of the fish and the plants, removing
everything from the tank. Change the filter floss and filter mediums.
Then add 1 cup of bleach per 10 gallons of water
to the tank, wiping down all of the sides of the tank inside, especially
around and above the water line after the
bleach has been added. Let sit for a couple days, then change all of the
water. Let it run for a day or two until the
smell of the bleach is totally gone. Then do a total water change again,
putting in 20% or so seasoned water to head
toward getting the tank going again. You should be able to reintroduce
fish again at this point, but I will often let
the tank go a few more days, usually putting a few culls in to see how
they do before fully reintroducing fish.
Inbreeding and Appropriate Choice of Breeders
As I got more serious and meet other hobbyists, I’d ask for advice, and
found I was entering into territory where
otherwise sensible, reasonable people will differ on an aspect of
husbandry or procedure. Someone who believes in one
theory can quickly become thought of as a nutcase by someone else, so it
became important to listen to everyone’s opinion,
then figure out where I stood. To be honest, with many issues, no one
really knows the answers, which may vary given
different water conditions, and altitude (A big issue for breeding where
I live in Denver), so that “the truth” may vary
from one fishroom to another. What you feed, how often, your water
qualities (pH, hardness, temperature and how often
you do water changes), in combination with the characteristics of the
species and line of fish you are working with often
negate hard and fast rules that will work equally well for someone else.
The result is that there are a number of theories
that are held hard and fast by some people that you may need to ignore,
while other well-meaning fishkeepers are guilty of
forming their thinking and beliefs using the old axiom that once is an
occurrence, twice is a coincidence, three times is
a rule. And there may be no validity to them whatsoever, and the
strongest opinions seem to be held regarding inbreeding.
Much has been said in heated discussions over inbreeding. Does it weaken
or strengthen the line? When should you outcross,
if ever? At the Xiphophorus stock center in San Marcos Texas, Dr. Gordon
collected wild lines in the 1930’s that have been
inbred consistently for many dozens, and in some cases even past a
hundred generations, and they are doing well (with
careful, extensive record keeping). So why do fish that are inbred often
show bent spines and such after just a few
generations?
The reason may be non-intuitive, but can be easily understood. As you
narrow the genetic variety within a line of fish
through close inbreeding of similar, consistent, related individuals,
unwanted traits within the fish will gradually
show themselves as they “rise to the surface”- in other words, as each
aspect of the genetic diversity in the fish is
expressed over time, over a large number of fish, undesired traits that
are simply present within the genetic makeup of
some individuals will eventually present themselves. As the breeder you
must cull those individuals, essentially removing
that “negative” trait from the genetic makeup of the line, as you would
do with any fish that did not appear as you would
like, toward “purifying” or stabilizing the look of the line you are
working with. Bent spines are just another trait. If
you were looking to develop a line of fish with debilitating
deformations, you would use those fish as breeders. (Balloon
mollies, anyone?) Fish with deformations or sometimes dramatic changes
in appearance (such as albinism) occur routinely
in the wild, but simply do not survive as they often present as a target
to predators. So the appearance of those negative
traits is not a response to the inbreeding “causing” a negative trait ,
it is simply the normal expression of traits the
fish carries that eventually express, as a line loses its variability
and becomes more homogenous. Inbreeding allows you
to spot and remove the fish with these unwanted traits most quickly from
a population. So where some argue that inbreeding
is harmful, others argue it is beneficial, and for the same reasons! One
problem with inbreeding however, is that without
careful observation and appropriately choosing the breeders of your
future stock, the line can in fact weaken away, as
anyone who has ever put a great line of pet store guppies into a tank to
community breed will find out after a year or
two. They will generally revert toward their natural coloring and
smaller size.
Choosing appropriate breeders is addressed later, but ultimately comes
with experience to choose for the largest,
healthiest fish. You would not choose a male guppy to be a breeder with
poor body shape or a weak overall physical
character entirely because the tail is a particularly attractive color
you had never seen before. You will do overall
harm to the line with no guarantee that the color you desired will even
reappear. With that situation, I would take that
male and breed him to his best sisters. By doing so I have chosen to
offshoot another line. Then raise up their young,
looking for a better combination of color, conformation and health than
the original father had. If a new male does show
up that carries the minimum characteristics- and chances are one will
not- you would then cross that male over to a
female of the original line to begin the long process of fixing that
desired color.
Breeding to develop a specific line requires some discipline not to
become sidetracked by each new minor mutation, also
keeping in mind that every differently colored or lushly finned fish is
not necessarily a healthy fish. To see a mutation
in a single fish is some distance from a batch of young carrying that
trait, and pursuing it may ultimately be a poor
decision for the vigor of the line. But that is why I find breeding so
enjoyable- I get to decide to pursue something,
and then get to see what the fish does with my choices.
I do not breed for a single trait at a time. I choose breeders from
among a collection of traits I am looking for,
aware that to have something often requires a compromise of something
else. The biggest fish may not have the best
color. The fish with the longest fins may not be the largest fish. Etc.
By having three or four pairs or trios going
at a time you can, over time, gradually nudge the line toward the proper
collection of traits you are looking for,
maintaining the overall size, health and vigor of the best fish in the
line.
I tend to believe that the energy against inbreeding has begun to
subside, though there are many that reasonably
argue the benefits and essential place that outcrossing with wild lines,
etc. plays in any serious breeding program.
It comes down to what you are looking for and the species you are
working with, (Discus breeders I’ve known can be
truly obsessed with the latest wild fish they’d paid to have caught and
shipped to outcross with) but I have come
to believe that inbreeding (brother to sister and parents to offspring)
by itself does not ruin fish when breeders
are chosen appropriately. When an outcrossing to a wild fish occurs,
however, it must be done carefully as you are
introducing any number of characteristics that may need to be gradually
bred out of the line.
How is it that you are reading this essay by another hobbyist on what is
right or wrong with regard to keeping
fish? Aren’t there universities full of professors with doctorates in
biology that know this stuff inside and out?
Besides my own fish room I am also the fish lab manager at a large well
known university, and surprisingly, many well
educated people that can sequence fish DNA, or are experts in their
fields of taxonomy, having identified or published
works on fish issues are often unable to keep fish alive in a fish tank.
A leading expert on Xiphophorus taxonomy that
I know well has admitted to me often that he can’t keep a fish tank, and
when I offered to set up a tank for him, he
ultimately decided against it. The tips and knowledge I provide here can
only be accumulated through experience, and
there is much room for conflicting opinions in the hobby.
An
Overview of the Process
Work to keep things simple. All that tanks require is a strong and
consistant air stream to a large box corner filter
with charcoal and floss, kept reasonably clean. Heaters are an extra
expense, but I want to enjoy working in my fishroom.
I don't want to have to keep the room at 80 degrees, so I do use heaters
with fish that require warmer water, generally
raising fish that are most comfortable closer to the ambient fishroom
temperature. Most breeders I have met don’t use
heaters if they can, primarily to save on electricity. I have also found
that fry should be raised at a higher
temperature than the adults to stimulate feeding and growth. (80 degrees
seems to work best, and with colder water
fish the fry temp should stay around 75 degrees) I’ve explored nitrite
removers, black light sterilizers and constant
trickle water changing setups, and in nearly all cases they provided far
more intellectual stimulation for me than they
helped the fish. A simple, organized setup and consistent approach,
appropriate tank space, keeping only fish together
that you want together without overcrowding, a focus on saving and
raising the young carefully by keeping the tanks and
water fairly clean, consistent air and temperature, moderate light,
covers to prevent adults from jumping out, quality
food and lots of it, a few fine-leaved plants for security and water
quality, careful observation, controlled breeding
with properly chosen breeders, and patience. Those are the basic
guidelines.
The Guppies taught me much of what I needed to know, but the reality was
that I left my total devotion to Guppies after
about 4 years, concerned for what I felt was compromised immunity in the
fish, frustrated that I couldn’t give my fish
to anyone else and have them do well.
Many become involved in the show circuit, sending their fish off to
various shows, and that didn’t interest me. It
seemed to me that the people who saw the best fish the hobby had to
offer at fish shows were usually other fishkeepers.
The fish were spectacular and breathtaking to look at for anyone not
familiar with them, and I felt that it was the
moderate hobbyist that had never seen them that most needed to raise and
enjoy them. I felt that the younger people
coming up needed to experience these fish so that they might become
involved in the hobby.
The immunity issues I perceived in the fish I kept could have been due
to my husbandry, the strains I worked with, or
an inherent immunity weakness, though disease was never a problem for me
in my tanks- the problems arose when they left
my highly controlled and near hospital-like setup. Too often, I’d given
fish to friends, they’d take them home and the
fish then died almost immediately. But today, 2010, the strains have
improved, and though those other fish certainly
exist, there are a number of lines bred in Moscow, Israel and by members
of the IFGA that are every bit as impressive
as the big delta tailed guppies I wanted, a couple lines that today I
breed and sell on my website.
In 1998 I began working with a line of Xiphophorus nezahualcoyotl that I
had rescued from being used as feeders in an
Oscar tank owned by a member of the San Francisco Aquarium Society. She
didn’t know what she had, and wanted to get
rid of them- the Oscars weren’t fast enough, and she always seemed to
have a few that wouldn’t disappear. Few
opportunities to work with a line could be more virtuous than that! They
were a cool little fish with a medium,
slightly upturned sword, decent color and a beautifully patterned
dorsal. But they were small and thin with an
elongated shape. From having wrestled with Guppies the previous couple
years, there were habits I’d gotten into that
convinced me that I could do a lot with that fish. I separated sexes as
early as possible and bred out high numbers
with substantial water changes and frequent feedings of varied foods. I
selectively bred for a high, thick body
conformation, thick caudal peduncle (the part of the body just before
the tail- just as you do with guppies to
develop tail strength) and best color. I removed the females as soon as
they dropped to save every young I could,
and then carefully raised them up. Today that fish is still distinct
from other nezzies available in the hobby
and when fed well in a larger tank they will get very large and
breathtaking. I easily raised many thousands of
fish over 4-5 generations before I felt the look was “set”, my fishroom
was almost entirely nezzies in every tank
and in buckets on the floor. Later, I stopped keeping them for awhile,
but others continued my effort, and I have
since begun working with them again, selling that same line at my
website, selectaquatics.com.
Though I have never bred angelfish or discus over the long term, I have
worked with a number of other cichlid species,
currently working with an all blue mutation of the Honduran Red Point.
Whether to remove one or both parents, or leave
the young with them and for how long depends on the species, but my
practice is to remove the majority of the young as
soon as they are old enough to be moved. It is important to leave some
young with the parents, for just taking them
away stresses the parents and too often results in one parent often
killing the other- the male generally being the
aggressor. The young are then raised up separated from the adults,
culling for deformaties, etc. as they grow up.
Then I will choose the best 15 or 20 as they reach sexual maturity and
let them pair off naturally.
Obstacles
So what are the obstacles? Unfortunately, there are a few to
consider, most that are overcome through experience,
patience and persistence.
Here is a rundown of my experience with each of the aspects I have
learned that must be overcome for a successful
breeding program to work:
1. Equipment setup. If you are occasionally running into problems with
the electricity going out, big temperature
fluctuations, a tank that leaks, filters that stop working, etc., get
those resolved first. Use covered, moderately
lit, bare bottom tanks that stay at an appropriate, consistent
temperature, and simple floating plants (Java moss, Java
fern, Najas grass, riccia, water sprite etc.) to keep things simple,
stable and consistent. The focus must stay on the
fish.
2. Get good initial stock, and be sure you can keep them healthy before
expecting them to breed for you. Poor
stock may not look as you prefer, and may not breed consistently, or may
even throw junk until you get the line
stabilized and predictable. That takes a lot of time- months- when
getting well bred, genetically stable fish from
a reputable breeder in the first place avoids those issues.
3. After the fish you receive are settled in, their young- the ones
actually born in your water, are the all
important fish to focus on. Because it is the first generation in your
water, there may be some losses, and how
prolific they are will depend on how well they are raised, when they are
bred, and how optimal they are able to
become for you. More will survive, reach their potential and breed
readily with each successive generation as they
acclimate to your conditions. Until the line is stable- 2-3 generations,
the numbers of young that survive throughout
the grow-out will gradually improve.
Losing an occasional fish as they grow out is not a big reason for
concern, unless the losses continue to a point
where you know that something is fundamentally wrong with their care.
How do you know? I tend to follow that losing
more than 15-20%, over the course of raising fry to full adulthood is a
reason for concern. Today I have a number of
species that have spent numerous generations in my water, do well in my
water conditions, and breed and grow easily
and consistently. There are others that after many tries do not do well,
or only adjust poorly. I have learned that
choosing fish that do best in my water offers the greatest success when
trying to selectively breed them.
Some species populations will truly seem to explode with young when they
like your conditions. I have also discovered
that if I really want to keep a particular species, I may find that by
trying a number of different lines that have
come from different conditions may eventually find a line that will do
well in my water. On four separate occasions
over a period of 3 years I finally came across a line of Zoogeneticus
tequila that would breed in my water. But
continuing to try stock from a variety of sources is no guarantee that
you will eventually find what you are looking
for, though patience and continued effort may pay off if your water
conditions are appropriate.
Predicting and Planning for Egg Layer Output
Predicting the output of a species can be tricky. Assume we are talking
about a small egg layer- a barb, rasbora,
danio etc. How many young reach adulthood will be very different than
Cichlids, where the parents guard the eggs
and young, or most livebearers who have set broods of 10-40 young that
are fairly well developed when first born.
Assume you have 3 pairs of barbs. The books tell you that of this
species each female will produce 300 eggs per spawn.
So you condition them, and the fully mature females are full of eggs and
ready to go, the males have been kept separated
and are also ready to go. You put them together under all of the correct
conditions and they eagerly spawn. My experience
has been that you will never grow out 900 fish. Your actual number of
fry reaching adulthood, if you do everything right,
in my experience, will be closer to 150. Livebearers are an entirely
different issue, where fewer young being born means
fewer casualties. But if you set out assuming that 2 pair of fish that
can each lay 300 eggs every 2 weeks is going to
produce 1200 fish a month for you, you would be mistaken. Here is why,
and I will start from when they first spawn:
1. Parents will eat some of the eggs. In the process of releasing eggs
during spawning some of them will be eaten,
that’s just the way it is. You can place a screen below the breeding
pairs (which is what I do), but it will be need
to be deep enough in the water to allow the fish to swim freely and
comfortable darting about. They also need to be able
to get to food easily so that it does not simply fall through the
screening and foul the water, but the screening should
not be so far below them that eggs are eaten as they are released. About
2.5-3 inches seems to work best.
2. An effective setup for having caught the eggs (a mesh bottom the eggs
have fallen through, or large stones the eggs
fell between, or marbles) can minimize predation by the parents. When
those methods work as they should, the eggs will
begin to hatch, but a fair portion will be infertile because they simply
weren’t fertilized, they were immature or are
simply defective. These factors account for about 15-20% of the eggs
released.
3. Once they hatch, the fry need to get to the infusoria you have
provided, and bunches of plants- say Java fern- are
very good through their leaf surface area at providing infusoria, while
helping to cultivate the infusoria culture you
have introduced. Hard boiled egg yolk sifted through a cloth or some
yeast water can also be fed. Unfortunately, snails
often get transferred into the tank with the plants, and they will eat
as many eggs as they can- a snail explosion from
a couple adult snails hidden in the plants can easily wipe out a
substantial portion of the spawn. The small algae
eating shrimps available in the hobby, if they get into an egg layer
breeding tank will really chow down. We’ll
assume you have very few young snails or none at all, and no shrimps,
and that you only lose about 10% of the fry
who do not get to the food they need soon enough or in large enough
quantities. This is the aspect of breeding where
I am weakest, due to a relative lack of experience. Though I have bred
egglayers for many years, I have only been
breeding barbs in a commercial context where efficiency and
effectiveness is key for about 2 years, and admit that
I am still fussing and experimenting with the most practical and
effective process to turn out the greatest numbers.
4. The period following their hatching in their fragile lives does not
need to be an uncertain time of losses until
they begin to eat regularly. Frequent feedings, clean water and
appropriate, gentle aeration are all you really need.
The filtration should be low or entirely the result of massive daily
water changes (I do 20-50% daily water changes
for new fry for the first week or two with my smaller 5 or 10 gallon fry
rearing tanks) done so that few new fry are
drained away, until they are ready for brine shrimp and can be put into
larger tanks to grow out.
5. Assume you leave the egg scatterer pairs together for a week. Some
young may hatch in 2 or 3 days, others may take
up to a week longer depending on when they were laid, overall health,
etc. Some that hatch immediately will be exposed
to the wealth of the environment before any of the others, and will grow
quickly, others that hatch later may survive,
but not in as robust a manner. Since they will need to be a few weeks
old before they can be moved, the difference in
size, though not substantial, may be enough that the larger fish may
feed on their newly hatched siblings, and from
that you will lose a few, quite possibly a substantial portion of the
overall spawn.
6. Some will be born with issues that keep them from thriving. At first
I was breeding barbs in a tank that was too
deep, and easily 50% of my first spawns that managed to make it to ¼”
developed swim bladder problems. They were unable
to stay off the bottom and spent their days struggling to swim up, using
their energy that should have gone into growth.
I was able to cure the majority of them by raising them in hanging net
breeders where they stayed within 2-3 inches of
the water surface, removing them one by one as their swim bladders
developed properly. This took about 2 months, and
resulted in undersized fish with some that never recovered. Under the
best of circumstances, there will be those born
defective, some with swim bladder issues (often called belly sliders),
bent spines etc.
7. Then, as they are moved to larger grow-out tanks and fed heavily to
push their growth, in a 50 gallon tank of say
75 fish- at about a half inch, I have found that I remove 1-2 fish a
week that die for one unknown reason or another.
This process seems to continue until about 3-3.5 months, when they
stabilize and I generally don’t encounter more
regular deaths.
8. Lastly, you may do all of the things right, but with some species in
a normal location where they are exposed to
daily light cycles and seasonal temperature changes they will naturally
stop breeding from about October to April
(depending on species), and there will be no young, or very reduced
spawns.
9. And all this has happened before the fish have matured and sexed out,
before you have yet seen what they actually
look like. Then you will need to cull a substantial portion of those
left that don’t express the traits you are
looking for.
But there is a way to get around much of this while producing large,
healthy spawns. Have as many breeder pairs
going at a time as possible, knowing ahead of time about what can be
expected, providing enough tank space to breed
many pairs. If you want 1200 fish a month, you may then have to have at
least 18 pairs going- breeding all at once
in a large breeding tank, making sure that you are able to keep up your
water quality and feeding needs for the large
group of young you will be creating. And it may also be that your losses
will increase once again, until you work out
the space and feeding responsibilities so that as many young as possible
are able to survive. Fish that breed seasonally
can usually be tricked into spawning year around in a fishroom that does
not get natural light, or when the light timing
in the room stays consistent throughout the year.
You will breed and produce a lot of fish, but it will happen as a result
of your mastery of making it happen, not
the mathematics of what you assume is possible based on their
reproductive rates. You can make money at this, or
produce a lot of great fish, but like everything else, it doesn’t just
happen, at least not at first. The obvious
advantage of greater numbers are the number of new mutations that will
occur, and careful choice of breeders
becomes far more interesting when there are a far greater number of fish
to choose from.
Choosing individual breeders can be challenging. With fast moving,
schooling fish such as the barbs I work with it can
be particularly difficult to pull out a specific fish, particularly when
they will “wash out” when stressed, so that
you can no longer select for color. I move groups of about 10 at a time
to a separate temporary tank to settle down and
get their color back before choosing the next generation’s breeders,
maybe going through 4 or 5 selection cycles to
find the best fish possible.
With the proper mindset you can avoid disappointment and stay enthused
for what you are able to accomplish. It is
said that frustration is the simple mismatch of reality against
expectations. That surely applies here. With egg
scatterers, if you are able to produce 300 fish a month, that is quite
an achievement without access to ponds and
hundreds of fish to start with. Always take confidence from what you are
able to do, knowing that as you get better
the numbers will continue to improve.
Lastly, keep in mind that when a setback occurs, you must be comfortable
getting past it as soon as possible and
continuing on. On 4 separate occasions I lost hundreds of P. padamya
barb fry, all separate issues, as a normal
part of my learning curve. All it meant was that after the females were
conditioned up new pairs were put together
to start all over again. Also, remember that those who make a living
breeding large numbers of fish do not do so
with near the complexity that you as a home aquarist are forced to
contend with. They breed their fish in long outdoor
concrete runners, seeding new populations with breeding pairs pulled
from a previous batch. They generally don’t look
for mutations or study them with near the intent that you will. Today I
am selectively breeding a very brightly colored
barb in numerous tanks, separated sexes etc., yet the wholesalers I
might turn to for advice are not in a position to
help, for with access to ponds they are doing things entirely
differently. So you could easily be encountering new
ground with each step in the process that you discover works for you.
Mutations and Some Basic Genetics
I have been asked why I seem to get so many mutations, such as albinos
and white individuals with black eyes-
leucistic- among some of my fish. I’ve been told more than once that I
must have something strange in my water.
But I have been successful at producing mutations over three addresses
in both Colorado and California. I’m currently
breeding a line of albino Xiph. Alvarezi (from a wild line), as well as
a line of high fin Xiphophorus mayae, a species
that had never before expressed the trait. I did have a line of
leucistic nezzies (Xiphophorus nezahualcoyotl) for
awhile, but even though they bred to a third generation they were simply
too weak, and gradually died out. I currently
have 5 other species I am working on of color morphs that have begun
here.
My getting the incidence of mutations is simply the result of observing
every young closely, then separating the
mutations from the others to be raised individually as soon as possible.
They are then bred with one another, or
if only a single individual, I will breed that fish with a normal
colored sibling, (or even back to one of the
parents if possible). The next section here refers back to the Punnet
square from High School biology class, which
more clearly expresses what I am about to describe. This basic initial
introduction to trait genetics is all that I
have needed to be familiar with. However, you can certainly explore this
subject further- into sex linked
characteristics, for example, with a decent text of basic genetics.
The first spawns (The F1s) of the mutation with a normal appearing
sibling or parent will be all normal colored,
but the mating of two of those fish will produce spawns where 25% will
show (“express”) the recessive trait
(This would be the second, or F2 generation). They will hopefully
produce enough that express the trait to breed
with one another, starting your line where 100% express the recessive
trait. The recessive fish when bred to one
another will produce all young carrying the trait- albino to albino will
produce all albino young. 50% of that F2
generation- the other siblings, however, though normal colored, will be
heterozygous (“Het”) for the recessive trait,
and those, when mated with one another will produce a percentage of
young that will express the recessive trait.
The remaining 25% of the F2 generation will be pure dominant, not
carrying the recessive trait (the mutation) at
all. So 75% of the F2 spawn is normal in appearance, and 25% will show
the recessive trait. Of the 75% normal in
appearance siblings, 25% are pure dominant and 50% carry the recessive
trait, but do not express it. They will all
look dominant, however, and it is not possible to determine which carry
the recessive trait, and which do not.
Some breeders (with reptiles, for example) will often sell all of the F2
generation not expressing the mutation as
Het for the trait- but when in fact a third are not. If you happen to
lose the fish expressing the trait, you can
then breed the F2 siblings with one another, hoping to cross two that
are het for the recessive trait, to once again
produce individuals that express the recessive trait, and you can
recover the line. However, if your recessive line
is doing well, it is best to destroy or put out to pasture the F2
siblings- for you can never know who carries the
trait, and who does not.
As an interesting aside, I took two pair of the albinio alvarezi to an
American Livebearer Convention before
anyone had ever seen them, and they took best in their class. I sold
those two pair to other hobbyists at the
convention, and one bred them out. Now they are available in many places
on the internet, all from those first
four fish. Since then I have had another occurrence of albino alvarezis,
and I’ve been slowly breeding those out
who are smaller, but a much brighter red than the first group.
Generally a new
mutation will be weaker, undersized and possibly even born with swim
bladder problems.
Some of
you may go to the trouble to treat these individuals with the special
“aquatic hydrovortex transition tool”
(flush them), but something different can be interesting, attractive and
desired by other hobbyists. These fish
occur as natural mutations, having appeared without being crossed with
anything else. But I don’t develop them
unless they prove to be fully healthy.
To strengthen the phenotype- the look of these recessive traits- I’ll
sometimes breed a particularly healthy
individual expressing the trait to a healthy normal brother or sister
(or back to one of the parents), repeating
the process outlined above to exploit its potential to strengthen the
size and constitution of those expressing
the mutation. The high fin mayae were at first very undersized and weak,
but through generations of choosing the
largest, healthiest individuals, and crossing back, their size and
constitution after about 4 years and 5 generations
has begun to approach the size and vigor of what the normal fish
exhibit.
With the “nezzy” swordtails, from a batch of roughly 30 young I would
get three or four whose growth would take
off, both males and females, and they would grow into large, husky,
healthy fish. I selected for those individuals.
Their color and finnage might not have been the best but their size and
health was what I was looking for at first.
Then there would be a couple fish with great color and finnage, healthy
in all other respects, but not as large, and
they got put aside to later cross with the largest individuals. Then, as
with most swordtails, there will be 3 or 4
“early-maturing” males in a drop that sex out early and are undersized,
an evolutionary development that allows for
some individuals to pass on their genes early. Those must be removed
from your breeding stock. When the sword
develops, the overall body growth stops and sexual maturity continues.
The best males are those that sex out late,
looking similar to females until the secondary sexual characteristics
(The gonopodium and sword) develop .
One fishkeeper that should know better swears that some swordtails are
born females and change to males later in
life, so these early beliefs die hard. No swordtails change sex and are
then fertile, they are simply seeing late
developing males. I have read that a much older female fish may develop
some male characteristics (such as a sword),
but they are never fertile. I’d then set aside the remainder of the
spawns as a “reserve” if anything were to happen
to the breeders. Rarely, there will be fish in that reserve that will
grow into big, nice looking fish, outpacing
those I had originally chosen. When picking breeders, I selected for a
blocky, muscular shape and big finnage. As
I mentioned before, the interesting challenge was choosing and putting
together the best breeders after they had
fully developed, but before they had gotten too old.
Eventually I bred hundreds of those nezzies, stocking the ponds of a
couple tolerant friends and giving them to
pet stores since every stage of the process produced attractive,
interesting fish.
Myths, Non-myths and Possibly True Odd Beliefs
If you are to carry your head high as a breeder who claims to know what
you’re doing, you need to be aware of the
issues where expressing your opinion may get you into an argument, so
that everyone will still get along with you
and let you see their setups. The problem with these theories below is
that both sides have a point, and it is easy
to see why the discussion continues. Only your own experience will
determine which side of the arguments you end up
on.
Theory #1- Immunity Compromise
Addressed earlier, selective breeding with a line that has been
dramatically developed over a long period of time
beyond its wild form in finnage and color, you may notice that the fish
are prone to fin rot and other bacterial
infections. They may be less prolific or produce a greater percentage of
unhealthy young when kept as you would other,
non-line bred fish of the same species. Guppy breeders I have spoken
with are generally convinced that immunity stays
intact in the line-breeding programs they use, and that tying any
inherent weaknesses of their fish’s immune system to
line inbreeding and good clean living is nonsense. They believe that
like ourselves, the fish are exposed to pathogens
they fight off routinely, regardless of water quality, and the
infrequent fin rot occurrences can be controlled with
the use of salt in the water, careful attention to cleanliness,
quarantine of outbreaks and choosing breeders that
are healthy and strong. In fact, simply culling the fish that become
sick strengthens the immune system of your line
by preserving the healthiest fish. They claim the fish are perfectly
healthy, thank you very much. The long finnage
has obvious circulation issues, and a carefully bred fish with
proportionate size and musculature will have no
problems with disease outbreaks.
The other side concludes that a long multigenerational history of being
raised in exceptionally clean, bare
bottomed tanks, selectively bred for finnage and color produces fish
that lose some if not much of their ability to
fight off infection. The fish never face genuine challenges to their
immune system, and over many years of this
husbandry it is no surprise that a sincere challenge to their immune
system results in quick deaths. Some guppy
breeders even claim they “don’t have any diseases in their fishroom”
further compromising their argument that fish
are exposed to all diseases all the time as a normal condition of
aquarium water.
My experience tends to support the latter belief, but I have seen lines
of Guppies in the last couple years that
are much improved, and will grow out luxurious full delta tails, even
when kept in planted, gravel bottom tanks.
Those I have seen most frequently have been from European or Russian
stock, but it does indicate that the issue
is being addressed effectively as can be seen in some of the quality
lines that are now available.
Is it necessary to outcross a carefully line bred fish, or possibly face
the eventual destruction/ collapse of
the line? I have been told that an outcross should occur by no later
than the 11th generation, and generally by
the 6th. Many breeders will separate a newly acquired stock into two
lines, line breed them separately, then later
cross them with one another every 5th or 6th generation as sort of a
compromise between the two schools of thought.
The genetic diversity is slight, but many feel that following that
practice is the best way to maintain a strong
line.
The other side claims this is all uneccessary, and that a carefully bred
line will stay just as healthy, if not
more so than a line that has been outcrossed. In fact, outcrossing is a
risk that introduces unwanted traits, flaws
etc. into a line that has been carefully developed to remove much of
what you are re-introducing. This is what
happens when a breeder decides to cross a highly developed fancy line
with a wild form to “strengthen” the line.
You will find that this is certainly one of those topics that brings out
the color and finnage of the fishkeepers.
My experience has been that “hybrid vigor” is certainly a real thing,
and outcrossing an established line to something
else will produce fish that are often more robust. But a careful program
of line breeding should be able to maintain
and continuously improve a line when done properly. The Xiphophorus
stock center with their line bred fish that go back
over a hundred generations would seem to prove that strict line breeding
can be done properly. Keeping two lines of a
strain is certainly a good means to outcross, and I imagine that some
hybrid vigor should result if the two lines had
been allowed to develop independently for a long enough period of time.
With my nezzies I never felt the need to outcross.
But if I were simply not aware that outcrossing was an option, the line
doesn’t appear to have been compromised from being
strictly line bred, and the need to outcross to “strengthen” the line
hasn’t presented itself.
Theory #2- Growth Hormone Inhibitors
This theory holds that the largest “alpha” males in a tank of single
species fish secrete a substance that functions
as a growth inhibitor against other, younger developing males, ensuring
the physical dominance of the largest male.
This becomes a very important bit of information with male grow-out
tanks. Because of this, selecting for the largest
males for breeding is skewed toward one or two individuals that had
experienced a growth spurt at a young age and then
may have suppressed his siblings. Choosing for other traits such as
color and finnage then becomes even more difficult.
Frequent water changes to dilute this chemical must be done, as well as
possibly separating out the promising younger,
but smaller males to other tanks so that they can grow out to their
potential.
The other side holds that there is no such thing- after all, such a
substance has never been isolated and identified-
and that normal random growth advantages provide quicker access to food
and bullying of younger fish, continuing the
growth advantage.
It is accepted by most fishkeepers that something exists that has a
clear affect on the fish, in a manner that a
growth inhibiter would exhibit. However, when you are trying to raise up
young Xiph. Swords, a fish that can get
fairly large with the right feeding and water quality, It would
certainly be nice to know if such a substance exists
and it would certainly answer a lot of questions fishkeepers have
wondered about, but its existence has yet to be
proven. Like other breeders, the assumption
of its existence works well when developing large fish, so I'll play
along because assuming that it exists does work.
Heavy water changes and raising the largest males away
from the others
does produce the greatest percentage of large fish.
And other theories exist. Some believe that young males may stunt their
growth in response to visual cues received
from seeing larger males in their territory. others insist that only a
relatively small percentage of males are ever
meant to be exceptionally large fish, and though we can develop a line
of predominantly large morph fish, the presence
of a range of smaller males is to be expected in the wild population.
Theory #3- That Females will Absorb Their Young.
I am still on the fence on this one, as I cannot imagine the “mechanics”
of this happening, though it would make sense
from a standpoint of benefit for the mother. This simply states that
with some species (often goodeids), when an
obviously gravid female becomes stressed, such as happens when you move
her to have her young in a separate, smaller
container, she will somehow absorb back the developing fry into her
system. When you check on her progress, waiting
for the young to be born, she instead appears less gravid with each day
and ultimately does not bear any young. With
some females it can be easy to believe that an older female, who’s a big
eater, looks gravid after being fed. Or some
females are large and robust anyway, though not gravid, who will then
thin down after being stressed by being moved.
Though the absorbtion of fry may occur, many of the instances thought to
be due to this are probably due to broad
changes in physical appearance a fish will exhibit after being stressed.
Theory #4- That
Swordtails will Change Sex
No livebearer commonly said to possess this ability will ever change
from a sexually mature male or female into a
fertile, sexually mature member of the opposite sex. Most species of
fish mature at reasonably set rates that can be
predicted without problem when taking temperature, feeding, and light
cycles into consideration. So when a fish does
not fall within those rough parameters we assume it is a very special
circumstance. The types of fish I have most often
heard as being able to change sex- after having been previously sexually
established- are the swordtails, and sometimes
the other main livebearers people have greatest exposure to, the
guppies, mollies and platies. Swordtails, in fact, will
sexually mature over a fairly wide period of time, with early maturing
males often maintaining their presence in a
population through simply mating earlier than those who grow into the
large showy fish we desire.
Theory #5- Community Breeding to Maintain the Wild Form
This holds that opposite the intent of selective breeding, a line
allowed to breed randomly in a single species tank
will strengthen natural, wild characteristics, ensuring that the fish
will become as close as possible to their original,
wild form. Sort of a selective breeding by “natural” means. This is
often cited by those breeding rare or wild type fish
who personally hope to divert the fish from its wild type as little as
possible, thinking this approach will yield the
closest to the continued appearance of the wild population.
The other side holds that an aquarium is an inherently artificial
environment, and that every effort to selectively breed
the healthiest, strongest individuals should be done, as these are the
fish most likely to survive in the wild and breed
naturally, and are best suited to continue the line. When allowed to
breed indiscriminately, the artificial confines and
lack of predators picking off the weakest fish in the aquarium
encourages unhealthy fish to incorporate themselves into
the population, while selecting for traits that provide an advantage
within the aquarium, but not necessarily in the wild
(such as smaller size). In both cases, in my opinion, there is the
flawed assumption that we know how to develop a fish
that best represents its wild form, as a result of choices that we make
for the fish in our home aquariums.
My experience on this is that many fishkeepers holding to the former
stance rarely provide an environment that addresses
a number of aquarium inherent modifiers. Keeping a larger, single
species tank that populates randomly is certainly easier,
particularly when your biggest concern is providing enough plant cover
to keep the young from being eaten. I wonder how
great an influence ease plays in the process. A genuine effort to
replicate a wild situation would require at least a
hundred gallon tank for a species that reaches an inch, and then there
would need to be the occasional introduction of
predators, cyclical live food, day/night temperature swings and seasonal
variations to begin to head you in the right
direction. We can only do our best to raise healthy fish, but we can’t
claim that the fish we keep are exactly as they
would be in the wild.
Theory #6- Sell them so they Die!
This thinking is that when you have to go to great lengths to carefully,
selectively develop a line of nice looking fish,
and you are ready to sell those fish to someone else, it becomes their
responsibility to keep them as they need to be kept,
and telling them the lengths they may need to go to will only discourage
the sale, so it’s best to keep quiet. What they
don’t know is a lack of their research, not your providing a lack of
information. If they die (as they often will),
they’ll have to come back to you for more fish anyway. Essentially, if
they leave your care and they look great and
are in all other aspects perfectly healthy fish, the fact that someone
else may not meet their needs is not, as the
breeder making those fish available to them, your problem.
On this I could not disagree more. The same applies to breeders that
feed color hormones to their fish before being
sold so they look better, not especially concerned that the fish could
be made sterile in the process, rationalizing
that the customer probably won’t breed them anyway. As a breeder you
have a responsibility to provide fish that meet
the customer’s reasonable expectations in as many ways as possible. Some
people can’t keep certain fish, due to their
water or inexperience, granted. But I strongly believe that it is up to
the breeder to provide any and all information
the customer needs to keep them going, as I would expect when I am on
the other side of the fence. I keep what I do
today in large part because of the information those first guppy
breeders gave me. Those original fish are long gone,
but the information has stayed with me, allowing me to continue keeping
them today.
______________________________________________________________________________________________
Actually doing
it. What steps are best right away?
Over time,
experience selectively breeding new species has led to a process that
has established itself. With a new
species that is
unfamiliar, what the new line has to offer needs to be determined. Do
the fish you possess have
the potential to be
developed into what you have in mind? the process isn't infinite- either
the "fancy" traits are in the
genome or they are
not (color and finnage), so at first you need to see which traits the
fish you are raising already
carry, and that can
be exploited. Much of the initial work to improve the line occurs by
simply focusing on the traits
that are already
there. For example, if I were to buy a pair of normal pet-shop helleri
swordtails with the intent of
developing a high
fin swordtail, I could be breeding them by the thousands for many years
before ever seeing a fin
mutation that could
be carefully selectively bred into a high fin fish. But if it were a
commercial red colored swordtail,
I could assume that
a fish with excellent red color and size is in the makeup that could be
developed. By carefully
watching every
young that is born, any mutations that do occur should be easy to spot.
Grow them out and decide whether
you want to pursue
it. An albino may appear, say with rare, highly desired bright white
color. The wise fishkeeper then
grows that fish out
and develops it into a line. You will have developed a new line of
albino fish- though that may not
have been what you
had initially set out to do.
Once the best you can get
your line to look has been accomplished, then it becomes an issue of
spotting often slight
mutations, pulling those
fish and breeding them. At the same time you are looking for secondary
traits that may appear-
traits you may not want,
but may have to either live with or work to breed out. In my breeding of
the HF mayae, individuals
showing new fin mutations
often were smaller in overall size. I would then have to incorporate the
new fin improvements
in the young I was
raising, then breed them to one another, selecting for size to get that
back. With each swordtail
generation taking 8
months, it can be seen how a breeding project can go on for many years.
Besides time, selective
breeding requires space. the only way to increase your odds for
beneficial mutations is through
breeding in large
numbers. Only through breeding a fish out by the many hundreds will you
increase your odds enough to
create genuine,
spontaneous mutations. When first keeping Xiph. mayae, I was in the
process of making the line consistent
(breeding out the
tendency toward early developing males, for example), and was breeding
them out 3-400 at a time in 40
gallon breeder tanks. Eventaully I got my first albino. I did grow it out, breed it, then
breed its young, but unfortunately
other albino young were
not produced. I now know that it happened once, and it is only a matter
of time before it happens
again.
I have had other
hobbyists tell me that an albino cannot be created spontaneously, that a
previous cross with an albino
fish had to have
occurred. This is not true. Some species are more prone to produce
albinos than others, but in my
experience, most species
have to potential to produce occasional, spontaneous albinos. The health
and color of the fish
produced can vary widely,
and some may be too weak to survive.
Recently I grew out a
nice pair of longfin green dragon plecos. The line had been hybridized,
and though there were many
spectacular young being
produced, many of the first batches were a hodge-podge of various lines-
albino, calico, short fins
and chocolates. The line
needed to be made consistent, and the quality of that consistency needed
to represent the best
the line had to offer-
excellent finnage and the best green color that could be selected for.
As a result, there are now 11
tanks of green dragon
plecos here. Currently in use just for the plecos are a 55, a 40, a 30,
and 8 10 gallon tanks growing
out fry.
Currently I am breeding
fish of the third generation, working to continue refining the line. The
second generation batches
(from a single pair of
the best fish from the initially obtained fish) had improved to roughly
20% short fins, and 5% ones
that were too dark, or of
another line. Of the longfins with appropriate color, about 5% have fins
that are about halfway
between short and long
fin, but the vast majority are surprisingly consistent. About 5% are
extremely long finned with the
lonfin mutations
exaggerated. Secondarily, their size is smaller, they grow slower, they
are a different body conformation-
longer and slender with
long, curling back first ray spines. their tails are extreme, especially
when smaller, and can be
longer than the entire
rest of the fish, so that the overall length of the fish is more than
half tail!
It is those fish I wish
to develop. Ironically, the breeder that had the line previous to me
(and may have caused the
hybridization) told me he
routinely culled those undersized, misshapen fish. I feel I am getting
to the heart of what the
line had originally been-
the long spines and lush, flowing finnage exemplify the "Green Dragon"
moniker. All of the current
consistent majority of
the batches are excellent fish, and are being sold, but future
generations are going to reflect the
extreme look of those I
am now growing out to breed by next summer.
As well, a recent
crossing of two albino young from an original batch 18 months ago
produced a large group of fry, of which
three are pure white, as
opposed to the amber/pink color of the the other albinos. They are
undersized, and one is not healthy
and may not survive.
Currently about 3/8ths of an inch long, fingers are crossed those two
will be a pair. If not, future batches
from those fish will be
watched for others that can be raised and bred out to possibly develop
an entirely new line.
The effort right now is
to cull and sell the line down to the few best future breeders. Because
I know that truly
breathtaking fish are in
the pipeline, I am able to sell them for less than other competitors
right now, and will charge
full price for the better
ones when they become available.
Other fish here that once
took up 10-15 tanks are now stable and bred in 2 or 3 tanks, keeping an
eye to maintain their
quality, and pull any
individuals that may show new promise to improve the line.
So, what is
“Selective Breeding?"
1. You start out with a pair of fish in a small bare-bottom, filtered
tank with a few fine leaved plants by
themselves (The tank being small so that you can always see them easily,
and they are able to find food easily as
they adapt to their new home), and at least 3 other tanks to be used for
that particular line of fish (see #2), the
size of the tanks appropriate for the species you choose to work with. I
have livebearers such as guppies and swordtails
in mind as I describe this process, but the overall process for any
species of fish would be similar.
To provide security for young, this first tank should contain a moderate
number of plants that fry can easily hide in.
(Java moss, Java fern, najas grass, riccia and water sprite are some of
the best.) The male, when the female becomes
gravid, is moved to a second tank, leaving the “home” tank to the
female, that the pair have become accustomed to. This
way she can have her young without the added stress of being moved.
2.Fundamentally, for each line of fish you will need a minimum of 4
tanks. One for the breeder pair, trio or pairs,
one for pre-sexed new fry, one for males grow-out and one for females
grow-out. This assumes that you will cull all of
the fish that don’t qualify as breeders, bringing your entire stock of
that line down to the few breeding pairs with each
generation. Keeping your culls, at least for a while is best, for
occasionally a fish that had been passed over as a
breeder matures out into a huge fish or one you want to breed after all.
If you have a loss of your breeders, it is
also nice to know that you still have fish you can use. But 4 tanks will
get the process started.
3.When the young are born, remove the female right after she drops, and
put her in with the male. Then remove the plants
and put them in with the breeder pair so the female can hide and
recuperate. Leave in a sprig or two of Java fern or moss
for the new fry to hide in, and to help maintain water quality while
also being a source of infusoria to pick on. That now
becomes the fry tank, and the first tank is the breeder tank. Feed baby
brine shrimp lightly 2x a day to the new fry.
If the fry tank is 5 gallons or smaller, change 50% of the water daily.
Do heavy water changes often if tank is larger for
their first 2 weeks. If possible, use aged water from the tank where
they were first born for their water changes, then add
dechlorinated tap water to the parent tank. Around three weeks guppies
can be sexed, other species can be watched closely
for first signs of sexing out. Move the females first to their own tank,
leaving the original tank to the males to begin
grow-out. This will ensure that few of your females will have been
fertilized. For livebearers where the mature males
possess a gonopodium, separate sexes as soon as the gonopodium
development begins, or a darker “gravid spot” begins to
appear on the females behind the “belly” area. Once a working gonopodium
is in place the males can mate, regardless of
whether other secondary sex characteristics have occurred (such as the
development of a sword). Raise male and female
groups separately up to sexual maturity. By separating the sexes you are
not only preventing unwanted breeding, but you
are also substantially increasing the growth and size of the fish that
are not expending energy chasing one another
around trying to breed and competing with one another.
4.Raise them up to determine which will be early maturing males,
undersized or otherwise unhealthy fish. Move bigger,
later maturing males and all fish that may become breeders to a tank of
their own to provide more space and better water
conditions, or if maintaining just 4-tanks, cull inferior fish. Continue
the process with the females as well, choosing
for size, color confirmation, etc. Save the culls if possible (in case
something happens to the better ones). It will be
at this point that you will need to make decisions such as: should I
choose one fish that is larger and more robust, whose
color isn’t so great, or should I choose this other fish, whose color is
spectacular, but is undersized? If you have the
spare tanks, you would do both, and then possibly cross the best young
each mating produces. Without the extra tanks, the
decision is yours, but overall size takes a long time to reclaim when
lost.
5.Raise them up to when size, color, finnage or whichever other traits
you are looking to breed for are set enough to
compare one against another, and choose the best fish. With guppies this
is at about 3.5-4 months, with swords it can be
substantially longer- 6, 7 months. These are your breeders. Generally, a
rule of thumb is that of a batch of 30 babies,
you will get 1 pair that will be breeders.
6.Continue the process until your breeder pairs are producing young that
consistently carry the trait you are looking for.
I have been told that it takes 11 generations to fix a trait so that it
becomes as consistent as it is going to get- where
ideally every young in the brood expresses the trait. With guppies a
generation is 4 months, with helleri swordtails and
platies, a generation is 8 months, with angelfish and most cichlids it
is closer to 10 months. My experience has been that
I start to see acceptable consistency (70-80% of young carrying the
trait) by the 6th generation.
Do things right the first time, and don't compromise or take short cuts.
Often I felt I could make an exception when all
I was doing was satisfying my need to have things proven to me. Change
the filter floss every couple weeks, and everything
else comes down to regular water changes, types of food fed in small
amounts as often as possible, proper temperature,
aeration, critical observation and patience. I also read constantly from
every book and magazine I can find on any and
all of the fish I am working with.
You must feed newly hatched brine shrimp to the fry and a good dry food
daily, possibly with beefheart or chicken liver
mix a couple times a week. I also use the “Golden Pearls”, produced by
Brine Shrimp Direct, and often feed smaller new fry
a mix of powdered dry food dissolved in water. I also feed live daphnia
and chopped red worms. With the swords I keep today
I also feed a vegetable flake and drop in an occasional slice of
blanched zucchini. And of course, be careful of any aquatic
live food that can carry disease or parasites, such as tubifex. An
introduced pathogen can quickly wipe out a lot of fish.
Keep the bottoms of the tanks fairly clear of uneaten food.
When culling down to your best fish, choose for overall size first. Then
select for form, finnage, color and level of
activity. A beautiful fish that rests on the bottom isn't really of any
value and lowers the quality of the strain.
I am now at nearly 120 tanks, and I still use the same 100 gallon as a
grow-out tank for the male nezzies, as I had with
male guppies before them. The nezzies are sexed at 2-3 months, and are
culled down to 2-4 fish per spawn, then put into
male or female only tanks. From there the best ones are mated in 10
gallon tanks, with java moss added when the female is
ready to drop. Males are removed before young are born and the female is
removed immediately after spawning. I feed the
female heavily before she drops to better ensure healthy young, minimize
the number she’ll eat, and do daily mild water
changes the few days before she drops to keep her overall health up. I
never, ever put females of the larger swords in
breeding traps. After 2-3 days babies are carefully caught and put in
net breeders for their first two weeks and then
released into 10 gallon fry grow out tanks until they are at least a
month old. I sex out the fish as soon as possible
and grow them out in separate sex only tanks until the breeders for the
next generation are chosen. I found that
earthworm flake or chopped earthworms specifically increases brood size
and the health of the resulting young. I do use
plants with the swords and guppies today, usually Java moss, Najas grass
and Java fern, and only use salt when I see a
problem developing (clamped fins, etc.) to get them back to normal
health.
I find that I'm constantly challenged, and pleased with new and
interesting things that seem to happen almost daily. I
often wondered if focusing on just a couple lines could become boring or
a burden, but the secret is to keep it simple
and within your time, energy and budget, and it stays fresh and
challenging. Today I happen to think that the bare
bottomed tanks look great- I don't miss the gravel and landscaping. The
emphasis is now totally on the fish. And what
I ended up with is certainly a long way from what I had expected, back
when I thought I knew what I was doing!
Greg Sage
Copyright 2011
selectaquatics.com
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